Food and restaurants with Craig LaBan
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We always spend Independence Day with old friends who moved
out to Wayne and who host a big suburban pool party for their former city
neighbors. It’s a very casual, very fun, elemental BBQ afternoon. And the
fireworks in Radnor are pretty good! (And early enough we can make it home in
time to catch some of the Roots…) That means salad duty for the guests, though,
and I was totally inspired by all the fresh produce and fruit blooming now at
the Saturday morning at the Rittenhouse Farmers Market. There were some blazing
red cherries at several stands, great dry cider from Frecon Orchards,
well-crafted charcuterie from La Divisa (have you tried Nick’s version of pork
roll yet?). And at the ever-interesting Z Farm, I found my favorite new summer
squash, a curvy-necked curiosity called tromboncino (also known as “zucchetta.”)
It’s all delicate meat, with very little seeds, and I split mine open and
quickly pan-charred the cut face, then tossed it into a lentil salad with
sherry vinegar, ripe tomatoes, slivered red scallions (also from Z), lots of
fresh herbs, a hint of curry and some creamy feta being made now by Valley
Shepherd. More on that feta later. -
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This weekend was also the occasion for Part 2 of my Shore
package. This one focused on the southern end of the Philly-centric Jersey
Shore, from Margate to Cape May. And, among the other delights – the fun new
burger-fied version of the Margate Dairy Bar, the sunset seafood views from
Junior’s and Bella Luna, the craft beer fun at the Watering Hull – we had one
of our best meals of the summer at the Red Store in Cape May Point. With former
Will BYOB cook Craig Russell now chef de cuisine, helping out owner-chef Lucas
Manteca, that’s a restaurant that’s really come into its own over the past few
years. We can definitely talk more about that piece, and I’d also hear about
your own favorite Shore places. And in case you missed last week’s installment,
here are my dining adventures from Part One, from LBI to Northfield. Also,
Thursday’s GoodTaste (the first of several to come from the Shore) featured the
excellent falafel salad from Grains and Greens, the hopping new vegan meal and
juice bar that opened up in Ventnor (next to Cookie’s excellent new coffee shop,
Ventnor No. 7311.) -
And do not fear, my competitively eating chatters. I’ve been
doing plenty of eating closer to home, so there is also most definitely another
edition of the Crumb Tracker Quiz today. Be the first to name NAME ALL THREE
PLACES IN ORDER where I ate (or drank) these mystery delights, and win a prize:
1) a by-the-pound mixed-platter of all-organic and scary-free
(dairy/nut/egg/gluten/shellfish-free) food; 2) Kyoto-brewed iced coffee; 3)
crab salad with horseradish and beets (hint #1: on the July menu only) ….
Ready, set… start crumbing! -
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While you nibble on those, there’s lot and lots of other
things to discuss… the sad closing of Matyson, which was one of our best BYOBs
over its great 12 year run; also, the
impending sale of Center City’s oldest restaurant - the 42-year-old
Friday, Saturday, Sunday - to Chad Williams, the Garces veteran who now runs
Tela’s Market. Hope he knows what's good for him and keeps that cream of mushroom soup. -
I also got a chance to catch up, if only by text exchange with Joe
Beddia, the busy man at Pizza Beddia whom Bon Appetit called Philly's “Pizza Jesus” and named
his labors of love the best pizza in America. As expected, much has changed for
the tiny pizza shop behind Johnny Brenda’s in Fishtown. But much has not. The waits, I
understand, are even more insane. And it’s not like Beddia is known as a speedy pie-tosser
to begin with. You can't even call your order in (since there is no phone.) Better get used to it, for now. But such an honor for an iconoclast like Joe Beddia, even
well-deserved, sounds like the definition of
a mixed blessing: “It's always good to see good work appreciated but it's been
a little overwhelming. A lot of our
regulars have been shut out and the lines have started as early as 3:00(we open
at 5:30). We made a minimum order of two
pizzas per party but we still have 40-50 people showing up and wAiting. So only the first 20-30 people actually get
pizza. I'm not changing any of my
process. And a new business, even if I
decide to change isn't happening anytime soon.” -
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Well, since we do a lot of eating out when we're at the Shore, we usually hit a stand or two on our way back. And it depends which beach we've been at. On the way back from LBI, usually at the Red Top or Green Top market on Rt. 70... but on our most recent trip to Ocean City, we hit Carmen's in May's Landing on the Blackhorse Pike. Gene's is also great. But Carmen's sold us the sweetest white corn I've had this season so far, so...
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I'm sure that was a festive - and crazy - place to be! My colleagues Jeff Gammage and Maria Panaritis co-authored a piece in the paper a couple weeks ago about growth of development around Independence Mall. And there was a detail in there that Independence Beer Garden currently goes through more beer in a weekend than Citizens Bank Park.
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I haven't had a chance yet to try Same-Same, since it's so new, or Tela's, since I wouldn't have thought to look for a Banh Mi there to begin with... but that just shows you how much the Viet hoagie genre has crossed over into the mainstream. At the moment, my current favorite is still QT in Chinatown. But I'm eager to try the new Lee's at 5th and Washington, whose owner previously made my favorite banh mi at Cafe Nhuy, (8th and Christian) which closed last year. It is, no matter what, a worthy quest. I'm also eager to give the banh mi bakery - Nam Son - a try at 16th and Washington a try.
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Off-center question, but with the Phillies being so bad my attention to the quality of the food offerings at Citizens Bank Park has been amplified. And I must say, I'm consistently disappointed. Is it because Aramark has a stranglehold on the concessions? Is there any chance this could change in future?
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Not so off-center really. I have to admit I haven't been to a Phillies game all year - which probably explains why Indy Beer Garden is selling more beer. But that lack of attendance and energy also has to impact the energy going into the concessions as well. There had been a very strong move to include satellite stands of local businesses at the park - Federal Donuts, Tony Luke's, the Scmitter from McNally's Tavern... but ultimately all those stands - the employees, the ingredients, the work rules - flow through Aramark. And I don't think Aramark is going anywhere. But the upshot is this... if the Phillies are winning, those hoagies, cheesesteaks and pulled pork sandwiches will taste a lot better. I guarantee it. On the flip-side, I read that Xfinity Live nearby is getting an expanded restaurant portfolio - including a Jason Cichonski restaurant. All I can say is: I hope it's more Ela than the Gaslight.
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I'm waiting for some good guesses on those Crumb Tracker clues... And while you're racking your caffeine-deprived brains on where that Kyoto slow-dripper is... Here's another fantastic iced coffee trend I'm loving: nitro! I love how these draft systems, which is similar to what's used for Guinness, infuses iced coffee with a creamy, rich texture. First place I saw do this last year was Square One on 13th Street. But it's picked up. Most recently, I loved the richly foamy, creamy draft of Whistle & Cuss over at Rival Bros.
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Hi Beer Guy - Yes, I've been out to Ardmore for a sip and nibble at the new Tired Hands "Fermentaria". It's huge - in a cavernous old trolley-repair shop hall at the rear of Schauffele Plaza, off Lancaster Avenue. And it's noisy as all get-out. But the beers are cutting edge - enough to draw a sizeable chunk of diners out from Fishtown on our visit. And the taco-driven/sharing menu is more ambitious than Tired Hands' original cafe nearby (still there, and specializing in beer bread and pickles.) The opening of this place qualifies as "an event" for the local beer community, but you'll have to stay tuned for a more detailed full review. Still to come.
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Hi Hector - I also noted the Watering Hull in that piece I linked above as one of the new entries to Stone Harbor. It's a funny mash-up of a place - beer bar, live music spot, and also Caribbean seafood house. It was also pretty good - a great, breezy vibe. In years past, though, I've recommended a number of spots in both Cape May and SH: the Black Duck, Blue Rose Inn, Washington Inn, Rusty Nail and Lucky Bones in Cape May.... Quahog's, the Reeds Hotel in Stone Harbor.. also just got a nice note from a reader recommending another new place in Stone Harbor called Borghi's by the Bay. Didn't make it there, but would welcome a report. Also, Fins, the replacement for the Pilot House in CM that was created by the people behind Peter Shields Inn, opened just a shade late for my round-up this year. Would also be curious to hear some reports on this new entry.
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Also, I'm having my wedding at Material Culture in October, which will be catered by Baba Olgas. Unfortunately, Aliza has stopped her amazing Sunday buffets (you can still catch them during weekend super clubs) but the cafe still pumps out delicious Turkish-inspired sandwiches, soups, salads, coffee, tea, and of course, a killer mezze platter. Worth a visit to the cafe and Material Culture! -
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You're not the first to recommend Fu-Wah... it's connected by family, I believe, to the Vietnam Cafe family, which operates a really lovely, more expansive version of the Chinatown classic next door. I've heard many, many people rave about the banh mi there - including a few famous musicians.
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Had a great lunch today at a new persion place close to KOP called Kabab Cafe. I had the Koobidah which is two skewered ground beef strips with basmati rice with saffron and grilled tomatoes. My friend had a kabab donor which is a mixture of lamb and beef. Both were very good and seemed very authentic though I'm no expert on persian food. The side dish was lavash bread (persian flat bread) which was served hot and obviously made from scratch and very very good.
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Hey Phillysub - thanks for the tip on this Persian in the 'burbs. We are totally lacking Persian options these days (except the Persian Grill in Lafayette Hill) after having a series of them both in the city and Chestnut Hill open then fade away. I'm going through tahdig withdrawal, in fact, and really really am craving some good crispy Perssian rice!!
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Yes!! Finally, a true coffee quester has chimed in and properly guessed #2... Peddler Coffee is new on 21st Street (at Spring) in the old Darling's space right behind the Franklin Institute from the guys that were doing pop-ups in the Franklin Flea last year. Very cool, hip little shop with funky wallpaper, exposed brick and live-edge rough-hewn wood tables. Overall some very progressive (read: light) roasting going on here.. but I was super impressed with both the iced Kyoto (so silky smooth, almost no acidity) as well the Santa Candida Nicaraguan beans I've been brewing... they smell just like warm brownie mix when they come out of my grinder. And the flavor is extremely well-balanced. I'd say we definitely have a new roasting talent for Philly's ever-growing coffee scene worth paying attention to. I hope they generate enough traffic on that out-of-the-way corner to support the store. It's definitely a handy pick-me-up if you're touring the museum.
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Well, at least we got 1 of these Crumbs correct. The other two missing clues... #1) the Farmer's Keep (10
S. 20th St.) the new quick-serve cafeteria-line venture focused on healthy options at Market and 20th Street. Very cool vibe with lots of exposed wood, nice earthy choices of alt-grains, fresh salads and naturally-raised meats, even if some of the seasonings were a little off, and some of the root veggies could use a little more cooking. Even so, it's an appealing new option for a strip on 20th Street that's becoming a fun little luncher's row, from the Farmer's Keep to Mamma's Vegetarian (best falafel in town), Nook (great coffee and scones across the street) and Spice End, the kati roll place on Chestnut at 20th that we really love. I'm fond of the achari paneer rolls. -
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And... yes! this correct guess for #3 came in at the last minute, so very good guessing. I got a chance to graze my way through the July menu at Talula's Table out in Kennett Square last weekend, and, honestly, it was as great as ever. Chef Josh Behm is one of the most underrated chefs in the region. And the menu was just gorgeous, including this salad in which every single ingredient had a voice but didn't overwhelm the other. Briny crab. Sweet beets. Sparky fresh horseradish. Crunchy ribbons of juicy cukes. Other hits from that menu - amazing lamb with halloumi, scallop crudo in tiny cups of cold peach soup; warm crepes stuffed with Fat Cat cheese, smoked rhubarb and PA maple syrup... and these fantastic tagliatelle laced wtih smokey onions...
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Also, fyi, this gorgeous Gruner Veltliner from Galen Glen in the Lehigh Valley was the perfect match for that crab. If you haven't tried GG's gruner, it's seriously good. Not quite as minerally as the Austrian version - but crisp and aromatic and extremely well-crafted. Worth a field trip, for sure.
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Well, we didn't score any Crumb Tracker champs today - but it was still a great chat! Thanks to all who came with excellent questions and comments. I will be back next week with some more tasty crumbs to share, and another dose of hot Philly food chat. Until then, may you all be well and eat something worth bragging about!
