Food and restaurants with Craig LaBan
The Inquirer's Craig LaBan discusses the Philadelphia food scene.
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Good afternoon my hungry friends, and welcome back after a
couple weeks away. I’ve been recharging my already voracious appetite on some
serious Southern cooking over the course of a great spring break mission to
Charleston and Savannah. What have you been up to since we last spoke? -
Let’s catch up, as I’m curious to hear where you’ve been
munching these past 14 days. I do have a few tasty local(-ish) morsels to share
with you for today’s Crumb Tracker Quiz, just to get us all back in the mood.
Be the first to name in order all three places where I ate these dishes and win
a prize: 1) Dumpling sampler (two kinds of pork, shrimp, veggie and a curried
chicken); 2) giant crab cake with remoulade sauce; 3) Hamachi ceviche on a
“corn cracker” (hint, this one is not in PA..)…ready, set…start crumbing! -
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Also, in case you missed it, I had a couple reviews land
since our last chat – this sunny three-bell report on Palladino’s (another gem
for East Passyunk), and last Sunday, a pleasant two-bell Mexican cantina for Chestnut
Hill with El Poquito. -
While you all chew on that, just a few words about my
Southern jaunt. Charleston and Savannah are two serious restaurant cities with
truly distinctive character. Definitely worth visiting. I ate more than my
share of stone-ground grits, fresh (never frozen) shrimp, salty boiled peanuts,
pimento cheese spread and chicken fried like they only know how to in the South.
You’ll be reading more in-depth details about that adventure soon enough in a
future Inquirer Food section. But here are a few quick things I loved… -
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fried eggplant, one of the super-flavorful Sichuan specialties from Peter
Chang, the famously elusive Chinese chef whose restaurant-hopping ways were
chronicled by Calvin Trillen and Pete Wells, who now is building a mini-chain
of Sichuan strip mall restos across Virginia. We ate at the one in Glen Allen,
outside Richmond on our way back. -
Ok, so we’re back in Philly and glad to be home! I'm glad to say we brought spring back with us. So, what’s been
happening while I’ve been gone? How about some good reports from the Easter
brunch front? Any new surprises in this year’s Passover-friendly offerings?
Tell me! -
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Great guess, Mike H! And you are correct. We finally made it to Bryan Sikora's cafe-market-restaurant in downtown Wilmington on our way south and had a really stellar lunch. This hamachi, tangy and Latin in accent, was definitely one of the highlights. But so was the veal bolognese over hand-spun pasta, a smoked beef banh mi (with great char on the roll), and a number of other items. I understand Sikora is about to open a big second restaurant nearby (hearing Latin influences on that) - and am glad to see that he's found a good home in Wilmington. They're luck y to have him.
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Stephanie S scores! Yes, she correctly guessed my first clue from today's CT quiz.. This dumpling sampler came from Ray's, the siphon pot coffee pioneer that also makes some really lovely dumplings. These were all pretty good - if a little sedately seasoned, like much of the food at Ray's. My favorites were the pork and cabbage, and the curried chicken. I always love a good curried chicken dumpling. Recent favorite was the curried, crispy chicken dumplings at Thai Square, the new Thai spot behind Naval Square that I featured recently for their crispy salmon with young peppercorns in Good Taste. By the way, my other favorite dish from that Ray's lunch was this flavorful Taiwanese beef noodle soup....
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I know you probably didn't eat there, but my all-time favorite bar is in Charleston. It's called Closed For Business and has some of the best bar-fare and beer selection I've ever had. Not 'rarites', just a well-rounded beer selection from all over with heavy local influence.
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I saw that bar - loved the name! - but didn't make it for a drink. It was a family vacation, so I made it to more restaurants than bars.... but I did imbibe well at a number of spots, including two Sean Brock places - Husk and Minero (which has a great mezcal selection.) I also hear that Gin Joint is worthwhile. FIG has an outstanding wine list.
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Sorry I am late to the conversation. Welcome Back!! I didn't make it to any Easter Brunches, but in the past weeks I did go to two different brunches. One was at the Top of the Tower, which is an event space normally but now they're having Sunday brunch. It was good, regular fare and then they throw in a few fancy dishes. The price is $50, which was reasonable, for a once in while visit. The view is worth it. I could spend all day just looking out the window.
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Hi HughE! Welcome to the chat, and thanks for this report on Top of the Tower. I was curious about that, since it hasn't been an open-to-the-public restaurant. I think $50 actually sounds like a lot for brunch at an unproven spot - that's Lacroix territory. But I can imagine the view is spectacular. A lack of high rise restaurant views is definitely one of Philly's weak spots. I'm hoping the new Four Seasons restaurant planned for the top of the second Comcast tower under construction will help change that. Did you eat something in particular that made it worthwhile for more than the view?
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Have you been back to Zeppoli since your initial review or have any plans for an update? The meal we had recently was one the best in quite some time. The antipasti was terrific and we especially enjoyed the stewed rabbit and bucatini carbonara. Several digestives to close the night was a nice touch too. Joey is rocking over in Collingswood.
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No, sad to say - not yet! But I definitely will. I've heard nothing but great reports, and I really enjoyed Joey's Sicilian-inspired cooking the first time around. Revisits are so hard to fit in. How was the sound level? That was my biggest complaint. When I left the restaurant and my ears got that ringing sound...
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I thought it was pretty good, overall. Not spectacular. Not a game-changer for a city that needs a very serious, authentic Thai place. But still a new player for the every day Thai craving. I noted a few other things in my little Good Taste item (linked earlier in chat), especially the pad see-ew noodles. But I was most drawn to this catfish dish because 1) catfish is a traditional fish in authentic Thai cooking, and 2) the flavor volume was definitely turned up a few notches, especially when you give that little peppercorn branch a nibble. It opens it all up your sinuses, clearing your head to welcome the blast of spice.
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Hi there - eml210, I'm sorry to say your picture link did not work.. but I so like the idea of any variation on gefilte fish being "beautiful" that I had to post the note. Gefilte is the most under-appreciated course in the Passover seder - especially if you go the fish-jellied jar route. But I've had good experiences with some more homemade variations. Would be hard to beat one caught by your dad himself - although I wonder if bass is "too fancy" for a dish usually made from pike or river carp, ground up with its bones and all...?
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We've covered this sad topic in chats past, and the real answer is 'none' - we just don't have anything that quite matches the authenticity and vibrance of Thai places that can be found in Queens (Ayada in Woodside) or Pok-Pok (in Brooklyn and Portland).... If I had to choose my best bet would be the South Philly location of Circles. Also enjoyed the Thai fare at Sai-Ba-Dee in Upper Darby, though they are primarily Lao... also, the Malaysian-inflected Thai food on the menu at Aqua (and similar menus at Penang and Banana Leaf) isn't bad at all. Had a nice fermented fish paste funk to much of it.
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I did go to Palladino's brunch. I had the WTF Waffle, which was epic in a sweet and savory category. It's not something I would eat every time i go as it's so decadent with Fois Gras and honey maple syrup with mustard and largeness of a waffle. I think my Dr would have issues if I ate it more than twice a year at my age. The bacon was good too.
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Palladino's had not yet launched its brunch by the time I'd completed my meals there, so I didn't get to experience that course. But sounds delicious. Luke's a great chef who is hands-on in the Philly kitchen right now. Doing great things and, remarkably in a town awash with Italian options, some dishes I've not had anywhere else - like that amazing focaccia di Recco... two cracker thin wafers of dough sandwiched around cheese...
