Food and restaurants with Craig LaBan
The Inquirer's Craig LaBan discusses the Philadelphia food scene.
3rd & 7 37yd
3rd & 7 37yd
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We were sorry to see Ulivo close. We went there on the next-to-last evening, which had a good crowd, and made a toast to the ricotta gnocchi, "brick" chicken, affogatto, etc. etc. I'm hoping Joe Scarpone resurfaces in a new venture -- running a BYO remains a tough business.
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You aren't alone. I really like Joe's cooking - and you hit on some of his classics, those Cal-Ital flavors dating back to his Sovalo (and I guess Tra Vigne) days. Hope he does resurface. And you are right that running a BYO can be a tough proposition if all the stars do not quite line up right. For some reason, Ulivo's spot in the middle of Queen Village might have been tucked away just a little bit too much.. not enough traffic to support a restaurant like that on neighborhood business alone. A BYO remains a great place to get started, or take a hiatus to regroup from the grind of a bigger restaurant. But very very few operators with ambition are content to keep that as their sole pursuit for longer than 5 years.
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I made it to Juniper Commons. Almost everything you didn't like on the menu has been taken off. They're coming out with a new spring menu soon. I had the fried chicken (my doctor is going to kill me), anyway, it was so good. i couldn't believe how moist it was, all four pieces.
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HughE - I doubt your doctor reads this chat, but if he does, I'm sure he'll forgive you for your enthusiasm. Glad to hear that Juniper Commons is making some changes, continuing to evolve and trying to get it right. I'm frankly just not convinced that an '80s restaurant is a sustainable theme...beyond appetizers. But it all comes down to execution. Good food is good food. The room is fun. The service is on the right track. The kitchen just needs to figure out what it wants to be.
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So glad you liked it. Mustard Greens, which I reviewed a few weeks ago, is a survivor with a low-key approach to Cantonese cooking that focuses on the fresh, the simple, the subtle, and the consistent. Often overlooked due to the more pyrotechnical Sichuan restaurants that have become the trend of late (which I also love), but it's definitely worthwhile. I'm glad I finally made it there for a proper review.... after 16 years. It's a lovely spot. For those who might be thinking I always say I'm going to get somewhere but never do... the Mustard Greens review is proof that it happens. By the way, my vote for best hot and sour soup in town is still Shiao Lan Kung. Rick Nichols is a fan of Hunan's out in Ardmore (I think it's pretty good, too)
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that was the thing about juniper commons (And i'm not a reviewer so maybe this isn't a problem you'd share but...) - even if everything had been done exactly as well intentioned as Sbraga wanted, i don't think the ceiling is even a 3 star restaurant. There's no there there with that concept.
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You may be right, rating-wise. But there is a place in town for a restaurant that gives thoughtful revamps and upgrades to American classics in fun and affordable family setting. JC has a fun setting. I didn't find it very affordable considering the food they were cooking. All those factors can be fine-tuned, though. People want well-crafted familiar comforts. If they hit the right frequency, it can still be a hit.
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hi craig - just checking back in since you were curious about one of your former chatters opening a restaurant in copenhagen. i have a million things to do before i sleep, but just wanted to pass on our website in case you want to go and check it out - www.madmadmadbodega.com (a bit of a play on words - mad is food in danish, and a mad bodega is a divey place that serves good food). take care, i hope that all is well!
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Hi Mazza! Thanks for logging on from the North Country and giving us a peek at your big Copenhagen adventure. It looks very cool, and I hope to visit Denmark someday (though probably not before I revisit Zeppoli!) I believe you should definitely offer a special discount or gift course to anyone who whispers the code words: "Crumb Tracker" Proud of the chat room alumni.
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Tried the Pit Beef at Rex, it was delicious. Everything from the crisp outside of the meat to the seasonings used while cooking and then served with wonderful horseradish on a fresh bun. I can't wait to return and for full disclosure I am a native of Baltimore and Rex's pit beef sandwich is better than any I have had before,
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No, although you're heading in the right direction.... but too late. I'm sorry to say we are 6 minutes overtime, and so this chat is officially over. The missing crumb tracker crabcake clue came from... Noir Restaurant on East Passyunk Avenue. This restaurant bar has made its reputation largely for some of its Montreal-inflected smoked meat/poutine-y bar food. This crab cake, though, was the surprise hit. Really well seasoned. Very moist. Not lumpy,exactly, but full of good sweet crab. And a very good bargain at $15.
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It has been a great chat, friends, even if we didn't crown a Crumb Tracker Champ today... You all started out on fire, and I thought it would be over before the half-hour mark. I guess something as seemingly generic as a crab cake threw you off. It's just that... for whatever reason, what used to be such a ubiquitous dish in a town where, just a decade ago, virtually every restaurant had to have a crab cake, the great crab cakes have dwindled to few and far between. I've had better than this one.. but Noir's was very good. Oh well, there's always next week. And I will be back! More good Philly food banter to come. Please join me again. Until then, may you all be well and eat something worth bragging about!
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